If not adjust the compound slightly and take another test cut. You are shooting for the ink or chalk to be evenly rubbed. That allows me to put blue ink or chalk on the crank taper and put the bored test piece on the shaft. I usually make a test hub and bore the area where the threads go a little over size. Take light cuts working in and out until you have a clean cut. I usually cut on the back side of the lathe and run the chuck backwards. I set mine up so the crank handle faces the tail stock or about the 4:00 position. At that point you are ready to bore the taper. Most crank tapers I have done are about 8 degrees. This is the most accurate way to copy a taper I know of. I set the slide to some close angle of set over and move the carriage back and forth adjusting the compound slide until there is no movement in the dial as it moves along the taper. I then take a dial indicator and set it up on my tool post so the stylus makes contact with the crank on the taper. So I take the crank and chuck it in the lathe. I have a pretty accurate Clausing lathe but even on that machine the degree engravings are very close but. The best way I know to cut an internal taper is to set the compound slide over to the angle.
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